Official Symbol of the Camino
One important subset of travel is the journey. Set out paths that have been travelled by thousands, even millions before. Religion often plays a strong part in this, assigning virtue to those who perform a pilgrimage, and even requiring it of those who are able (The Hajj). The most famous religious pilgrimage, however, remains the road to Santiago.
The Road
Having starting points all over Europe, the road, or Camino in Spanish winds its way across northern Spain and ends at the high altar of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. While many people came from Munich, Paris, London, Amsterdam, and other cities, the traditional starting point is Roncesvalles, in the Pyrinese.
The journey, for which the successful completion gave an indulgence, was undertaken by foot. Along the way, which was marked with seashells, the traditional symbol of St. James, there were inns that catered specifically to the pilgrim. The road could at times be dangerous, and so pilgrims wore scallop shells tied to their rucksacks with a cord. Two great books on this subject are Iberia, by James Michener, probably one of the best books for truly understanding Spain, and Matador Network’s Beebe Bahrami who writes Spiritual Traveler Spain: A Guide to the Sacred Sites and Pilgrim Routes. She also includes some details about Compostela in her feature Eat, Pray, Love In Spain.
Route Map
@DonnaLHull writes a great article on Travel Gifts for Under $20, and she included my suggestion. I have been stopped many times while travelling (I keep scallop shells tied to my backpack), all over the world, when people see it. Some say they’ve heard of it, and others remark that they have done the Camino as well. The oddest time this happened was at the Miraflores Locks.
The Outfit
Of course, the scallop shells on the rucksack was an indicator to people that you were on a pilgrimage. Even thieves knew better than to trifle with someone on a mission from God. However, even if it weren’t for that, it would be hard to miss a peregrino. Besides the heavy travelling cape and a rucksack, the staff traditionally carried by the pilgrim had a hook on top for attaching a big scallop shell (for drinking water, washing hands, etc.), and a gourd for carrying bigger amounts of water. Also, the hat, again adorned with Scallop Shell, was brown, and folded up in the front. If one chooses to visit Santiago, the opportunity to purchase these hats is everywhere.
Arrival in Santiago
As one arrives in Santiago, a long standing tradition is that the first person to see the towers of the Cathedral has to shout, “Mountjoy! I am the King!” and this person is the “king,” of the party of pilgrims. (Mountjoy was the hill from where Crusaders first saw Jerusalem) They would then continue to the Cathedral itself, the apex of the journey.
The Cathedral
Basilica
I arrived in Compostela not by walking the long road from France, but got off a night train from Madrid, groggy. Thus, I did not satisfy the official definition of a pilgrim, as you must have walked the last 100KM. However, the amount of rain I slogged through to get to the church gave me half an indulgence, I think.
My first impression was that the church was beautiful in its ugliness. Very Gothic and garish, and permanently soaked by the moist Galician air, looking at the façade from the Praza do Obradoiro (Plaza of the Worker). Entering the church on a relatively serene morning, and touring the inside, it mirrors most other Gothic churches. Beautiful high vaulted celings, gilt everywhere, and an altarpiece that has to be seen to be believed. Inside the main doors, there is a marble depiction of the tree of life, where millions of pilgrims have grasped the marble roots, and so there are handprints worn into the marble. Ascending the high altar, one traditionally embraces the statue of St. James. There is a guard there, and I won’t lie, this feels a little odd. However, the true fascination comes only if you’re lucky enough to witness the Pilgrims’ Mass.
The Botafumeiro
At the end of the pilgrim’s mass, a great urn, as large as a man, is brought out and attached to a great rope and pulley in the celing. Then, as the organ swells, eight monks grab and pull hard, hoisting the burning censer 60 feet into the air and starting it on a great 150 foot arc through the nave of the cathedral. This is one of the single most incredible acts I have ever seen while travelling. Whether you are religious or not, it is truly incredible to watch this tradition. I wonder if a monk has ever been taken out by this thing.
(Thanks to Peter Quinto for the video)
And then what?
Well, in true Gallego fashion, the best thing to do after a long day of pilgrimage is to sit down at a taberna, and indulge in Galicia’s incredible food culture. Caldo Gallego, a hearty soup, Albariño, an acidic white wine, and pulpo a la gallega, Octopus with Spanish Paprika, salt and olive oil.
Resouces
- Laurie Pickard discusses 4 lessons learned from the Camino de Santiago.
- @Soultravelers3, in a great post, describes the trip from a family point of view.
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Photo Credits (Europe Map – Kimdime69 translation of the German map of Mr Manfred Zentgraf, Volkach, Germany, Church of Santiago, Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain. By Vasco Roxo)
