Travel in Israel and Palestine

Normally, Gadling does a fairly good job of keeping tabs on things, and their reports are accurate and well thought out. However, a recent article by them was less than informative on a particular issue. Andrew Evans, one of their bloggers, wrote about travel to Bethlehem. He points out that it’s low on National Geographic’’s list of travel destinations. Israel in general is somewhat difficult to place in the travel-writing/trip planning universe because of its unique geopolitical situation. Having travelled there in the spring of 2007, I offer you this guide to getting the most out of the Holy Land.

Operating In-Country

Once past Israeli immigration (you can ask them to not stamp your passport, for those interested in visiting countries with a no-Israeli visa policy), I found it to operate much like a standard European country, except for trains largely replaced by buses. There is only one bus-company, Egged. They are fast, efficient, and cheap. Getting from Ben-Gurion Airport (which lies 1/4 the way from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem) to Jerusalem is most commonly done by shared taxi. You can pick it up at the airport. A ride to J-lem costs about 40NIS, or about $12USD.

Most travel intra-city in Israel/Palestine (and the middle east in general, though Cairo does have a metro system) is done by taxi. And even in Jerusalem, which is fairly modern, you’re still going to have to negotiate for cab rides, pretty much everywhere. It’s an acquired skill.

Things You Should Know:

1. Everything is much smaller than you think – The old city of Jerusalem can be crossed in 5 minutes walking. You can walk from down town Jerusalem into the West Bank in about an hour. A bus cuts this down to about 10 minutes, a taxi less than that. To go from Eilat, on the Red Sea, to Jerusalem, about four hours. Tel Aviv to Jerusalem? 45 minutes. Just remember, the entire place is the size of New Jersey.
2. Everything is a lot safer than you think – As of right now, the security situation is very good. This should not be a concern for people. However, the country does have mandatory conscriptions, so get used to seeing people carrying automatic rifles. It’s everywhere. Military and police are very polite.
3. Cross into the West Bank on foot – This is where the article really got me. There are numerous buses you can take right down the Bethlehem Road that stop right at the Security Fence/Wall/Border Crossing/Checkpoint. They are called the “Arab Buses” and are used primarily to get in and out of Jerusalem for workers. They cost 1 shekel, very affordable. Alternately, you can take a Jerusalem taxi to the crossing. Get off the bus, go into the checkpoint and hold up your passport. More than likely you’ll just be waved through going into the territories. Somewhat unfair but true. Find a cabbie, ask how much and offer about half. Settle for 75%. Shekels are accepted in Bethlehem. Flashing US Currency is not advisable, shekels will keep you under the radar a bit more.
4. Religious sites in Israel/Palestine are insane – You cannot understand until you see it for yourself. There are no signs anywhere. There are no brochures. There are no entrances and exits. Most of the religious folks speak some English, but I found Spanish to be more useful. The Church of the Holy Sepulchure in the Old City is a mixture of a carnival, St. Peter’s Basilica, down town Marrakesch, and Mexico City on Our Lady of Guadalupe Day. There is a ladder above the main door that hasn’t been moved in 150 years because they can’t agree who’s supposed to move it. Jewish and Muslim sites are similarly insane. If you are interested in a calm, orderly experience, I recommend touring the cathedrals in England. The Israel Museum (where the Dead Sea Scrolls are) and the Yad Vashem (Israel’s national holocaust museum) are exceptions. Both are very well organized, labelled and should be visited.
5. Prepared to be discriminated against – If you ascend the Temple mount (which I recommend), you will be flatly told that you may not enter the Dome of the Rock or the Al-Aqsa Mosque unless you are Muslim. The Old City is segregated into four quarters, Jewish, Arab, Christian and Armenian. As before, tensions have been running high here since the time of the crusades. Hatchets have not been buried. It doesn’t matter what you are, someone is uncomfortable with you being there. Respect everyone and make it clear that you are there to learn.
6. Eat as much as you can – Hands down, the one thing Jews, Arabs, and Christians can agree on is that Schwarma and Pita are the best combination known to man. Street food is plentiful and inexpensive in the old city. While alcohol is tough to come by in the Arab parts, a delicious schwarma or felafel paired with an ice-cold Gold Star (Israeli beer) might be the one thing that everyone can agree on.
7. Tuck a note in the Western Wall – Whatever it is you believe in, it’s a tradition that goes way back. From the Pope, when he visited, to presidents, kings, rabbis, to the kid making his Bar Mitzvah there (yes, you will see them going on), everyone does it. In a region so beautfiul that has so much history, write out a short little note and tuck it in. Ask for peace. They need it.
8. Visit Schindler’s Grave – One of the lesser visited sites, a bit difficult to find, just outside the old city near the Zion Gate. The Jewish tradition is to place a stone on the grave of a departed. Symbolically, the meaning is debated. Some say it is a symbol of upkeep, others that it signifies a part of you lies with the person. Most graves have a handful. Schindler’s has a few more.
   
9. Hitch-hike - The one place in the world that I’ve found hitch-hiking is almost encouraged. Due to the forced conscription, young kids are always trying to get around the country to see their buddy in army or trying to get down to Eilat for a quick weekend. Sticking your thumb out is a common occurrence. I myself hitch-hiked from the Dead Sea to Masada, and then we caught the bus on to Jerusalem. Obviously, standard rules for hitch-hiking apply. Make a sign (Get someone to write your destination in Hebrew), look respectable, be flexible, etc.

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Travelling to the middle east is something everyone should do. Even if you aren’t Christian, Muslim, or Jewish (like 66% of Earth), it’s still fascinating. You just have to remember that it’s not like going to Vegas for the weekend. There are some additional rules. Tensions do run high, and at times, organization is low. But I can guarantee one thing you will not have is a boring trip. 10 days in Israel/Palestine and you will never look at the Middle East the same way again.

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Anyone else have experience in the area?

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Photo Credit: maxim grishe